BD Journal report on Kyashar

Here’s the bit of writing I said I'd post ages ago... about our attempt on the west ridge of Kyashar, its on the BD web site so have a look here: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb

It seem the last two attempts on Kyashar have prompted a bit of interest in the line and a strong French team will be heading out in the autumn to attempt the south pillar so best of luck to them.  Hopefully they'll get better conditions than we had and manage to get up the pillar on their trip, it will certainly help me make the decision about going back for a third time!

Snow, snow and more snow in the Hinku

Trying to escaping the heat and humidity of Kathmandu I almost wish I was back in the Hinku valley sitting out another afternoon storm.  Flicking back through my notebook I can count five days out of just over a month we spent in the Hinku valley when we didn’t have any snow or rain, and that unfortunately just about sums up our expedition.

After acclimatizing at the col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru we spent two weeks sitting in the village of Tangnag at our base camp, waiting and hoping the weather would eventually settle and allow us to try the unclimbed South Pillar.  We never had a super storm with 72 hours of snow or anything like that but just constant unsettled weather that most afternoons would cover the mountains with a blanket of fresh snow, and the thought of having to climb through or sit out these storms every afternoon at over 6000m on a steep technical face wasn’t exactly appealing or for that matter an option.

The start of the south pillar which on last year’s attempt with Tony Stone we rock climbed was plastered in snow for the entire month we camped below it and coupled with the unsettled weather and ever increasing quantity of snow on the mountain it was obvious we weren’t going to get on the pillar.  A brief lull gave us a bit of hope and wanting to salvage something from the trip we retrieved out gear that had been stashed below the route and decided to attempt the easier west ridge.  This is the line that the mountain was first climbed by in 2003, from the col where we’d acclimatized to a 100m shattered rock buttress leads to a snow/ice ridge eventually finishing up the ice slope of the west face.

I’m just writing a short article on the attempt so I’ll save the story till then and link it to here but it was only an attempt unfortunately that included some of the scariest most dangerous climbing I’ve done in the mountains.  In the mean time Nick has written a good piece on his blog here www.nickbullock-climber.co.uk, and probably a far better read than mine will be!

Although it wasn’t the most successful trip climbing wise (again... thats two in a row for me and three for Nick) we had a good laugh, found some great bouldering around base camp and most importantly back in one piece to do it all again next time!

Panorama of the Hinku, Kyashar on the left to the West face of Mera Peak on the right

Acclimatizing at 5700m at the col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru, the west ridge is above Nicks head

The upper part of the South pillar of Kyashar

The calm before the storm

Approaching the col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru

leaving the col, with the buttress marking the start of the west ridge above

'a cheval' approaching the west ridge on horrible and deep unconsolidated snow 

(photo - Nick Bullock)

Nick approaching the buttress at the start of the west ridge with 

the 'normal' route on Kusum Kanguru behind him

2 hours after leaving the col we eventually arrive at the base of the 

buttress, something we thought would have taken 15 minutes.... 

(photo - Nick Bullock)

Nick at the belay before the final hard pitch

Leaving the belay for the final pitch 

(photo - Nick Bullock)

Nick approaching the bivi boulder after 18 hours on the go

Sunrise over the Khumbu

Trying to warm the hands whilst Nick constructs the first abseil anchor (photo - Nick Bullock)

Starting the second abseil

 Drying kit back at base camp

Base camp with Kusum Kanguru above

Sun halo above the west face of Mera

Nick and I would like to thank the Nick Estcourt Award, The BMC, Mount Everest Foundation and the Welsh Sports Association for their generous financial assistance, without which the expedition could not have happened.  And for their continued support I would like to thank Mountain Equipment, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Tendon Ropes, Adidas Eyewear and Science in Sport as well as First Ascent for supplying us with MSR stoves.

Kyashar 2011 Expedition update - part 4

Just had a text in from Andy and Nick (see below)....unfortunetly its bad news the weather hasn't improved so the guys have had to bail on their attempt and are now on their way back to Kathmandu.



"Hi Dunk, we've been shut down by unsetttled weather and too much snow up high, its been over 2 weeks since we had the last snow free day, with no chance of getting on the South pillar we tried the easier West ridge but got hammered by the weather. We went a different way to the first ascent team found some very 'exciting' (very scary) climbing. There was way too much snow to make any progress on the upper ridge so bailed next morning. Should be back in Kathmandu in a week Nick and Andy"

Andy will post further info when he gets back into Kathmandu so check back later

Cheers Duncan - Mountain Equipment

Kyashar 2011 Expedition update - part 3

Just had a text in from the guys...

"Been sat in base camp with lots of snow every afternoon for the last 5 days. We managed to get some bouldering in during the mornings before it arrives. Bottom butress which we want to climb in rock boots - not axes and crampons is now plastered so we need a few days of sun to clear that first and lots of snow on the face. Gear stashed at start of climb so all set for when we get the weather! Fingers crossed its arrives soon" - Andy and Nick

Kyashar 2011 Expedition update - Part 2

Just had this text message in from the guys via their Sat Phone......


"All well at BC. Nick is over the man flu and we've spent the last few days bouldering around BC and acclimatising up to 5300m. Weather has been a bit unsettled but not too bad. Heading up to the Col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru to acclimatise for a few days... Cheers Andy and Nick"


We should hopefully hear more from the guys over the coming days so make sure you check back for all the latest

Cheers Duncan, Mountain Equipment

Kyashar Expedition 2011 - Update

I managed to grab a 5 minute chat with Nick and Andy this morning via sat phone.

The guys arrived at Base Camp yesterday and up to now everything has gone to plan bar a bout of man flu and tooth ache for Nick - which Andy informed me is just a sign of old age much to Nick’s delight.... youth!

So far they have only been able to catch short glimpse of Kyashar on the trek in as visibility has been poor due to snow though Andy mentioned that the weather had started to clear this morning, so fingers crossed that it will settle over the coming days.

Nick and Andy are now going to spend the next 2/3 days acclimatising at base camp before making their next move. Make sure you check back for the latest over the coming days

Cheers Duncan, Mountain Equipment

And so it begins

Somehow, a lot sooner than expected I’m back in Kathmandu, the same sights and smells, the realities of real life forgotten for the next 5 weeks.

Most of our kit’s in Lukla, sorted and packed yesterday and flown out a day ahead of us this morning so no excess baggage bills to worry about this time.  Once again our agent, Loben Expeditions, has organised everything flawlessly.  I’m slowly learning that using a good agent you can trust takes away a lot of the stress of expedition climbing, well the planning bit anyway...

Hopefully the weather gods will be on our side and we’ll fly to Lukla tomorrow morning and start the 3 – 4 day trek to our base camp at Tagnag below the south face of Kyashar and our home for the next 4 or so weeks.  Although it’s my third time into the Hinku Valley I’m really excited to be heading back, Kyashar is an amazing looking mountain with a really compelling line, well worth a second attempt. 

While we’re away we’ll be sending the odd text via the sat phone to Duncan at Mountain Equipment and he’ll be updating their blog and hopefully this one if I remember to send him the relevant details!

We’ve been really fortunate on this trip to receive a number of grants to help towards the cost of the expedition and would like to thank the Nick Estcourt Award, BMC, Mount Everest Foundation and the Welsh Sports Association.

And of course a massive thanks for their continued support to Mountain Equipment, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Tendon Ropes, Adidas Eyewear and SIS.

British Kyashar Expedition 2011 and the Nick Estcourt Award

This coming spring Nick Bullock and I will be heading back to Nepal and the Hinku Valley for an attempt on Kyashar, 6769m, via the stunning and unclimbed South Pillar.  This will be my second attempt on this eye catching line after an unsuccessful trip last autumn. 

Nick and I first set our eyes on Kyashar (then known as Peak 43) in 2008 when we were in the Hinku Valley to attempt a new route on Peak 41, an expedition which was cut short when we had all our base camp stolen.  Walking up the Hinku Valley we kept getting glimpses of this stunning distant peak through the afternoon cloud, drawing us in.  Kyashar dominats the Hinku Valley, standing proud over the village of Tangnag, named after the lower black rock buttresses of the peak.

The first and only recorded ascent of Kyashar was in 2003 via the west ridge, although it is likely there was an unauthorised ascent prior to it coming onto Nepal’s list of permitted peaks for climbing.  The South Pillar has seen three attempts so far including last years, the first two from strong Czechs teams which started up mixed ground below the upper pillar.  Last autumn there wasn’t any visible ice so Tony and I approached the upper pillar by climbing the rock buttress, covering a lot of ground up to HVS with some very loose rock.  Time will tell which approach Nick and I take in the spring.

We were both really pleased to hear last week that we had been awarded the 2011 Nick Estcourt Award for our expedition and would like to thank all the trustees of the award for their generous support.

We are still seeking further funding for the British Kyashar Expedition 2011, any companies or organisations interested in an unique opportunity for exposure and publicity in the outdoor market please get in contact for further information on the expedition and marketing potential.

 Kyashar dominating the Hinku Valley above Tangnag

 Andy on the 2010 attempt

 

Andy and Nick on the summit of Chang Himal

It wasn't to be

Amazing views from the south summit of Mera Peak, 5 of the 14 8000m peaks visible

You win some and you loose some, and unfortunately we were definitely beaten by the mountain this time, but we’re both back safe and sound which at the end of the day is a good result for any trip. The disappointment as you’ve might have guess is that we didn’t get to stand on the top of Kyashar, for me its not just because we didn't get up the route and stand on the summit but more that we didn’t get to give it a good go, no one’s fault, just the way it works out sometimes.

The local youths!

Sorting kit and food at base camp below Kyashar

After savouring the views on the south summit of Mera peak, sorting the gear in base camp and a brief winter snow storm we set off up the face on the 3rd November. Steep grassy slopes and broken slabs led to our high point of a recce a few days ago and at 4890m we changed into rock boots for the first actual climbing.

The start of the climbing at 4890m, soloing up the initial slabs (photo - Tony Stone)

Dirty lichen covered slabs lead for 50m to more broken ground leading us higher into the complex rock buttress. Easy scrambling interspersed with the odd tricky step accessed a ramp feature we’d spotted when scoping the face. It was very Eiger reminiscent, loose scree covered terraces surrounded on all sides by steep, clean granite walls. More through good luck than anything else we were getting high on the buttress without any technical difficulties, the ropes still coiled round us. Higher the ramp turned into a steeper gully and we got the ropes out for three long pitches of Cilan style loose rock, the final one feeling quite ‘exciting’ but giving way to easy ground and the top of the buttress.

One of the many loose terraces between the steeper steps

Finding a way through the choss on the final pitch of the initial buttress (photo - Tony Stone)

On the rock wall leading to the glacier (photo - Tony Stone)

Where next? This is one of the things I love about trying new routes, the unknowns. We could see where we wanted to get to, the small glacier glinting in the evening sun, tempting us up to catch the final rays, but a steep wall looked to block easy access. Coming round into a massive boulder strewn bay we’d expected to be cramming our toes back into rock boots but were happy to find a fault line leading easily up through the rock wall that brought us to a five star bivi at the base of the glacier. The following morning after a leisurely start savouring the warming rays of the sun (the joys of a south face) we were breaking trail up the glacier to reach the snow crest that lead to the base of the upper pillar.

Savouring the morning sun

Heading up towards the main face

How your body will adapt, no matter how fit you are, to altitude is anyone’s guess and there’s only one way to find out – by getting on with it. This was Tony’s first trip to altitude and he’d been struggling with it since the start, having to descend from the high camp on Mera Peak with signs of server AMS (acute mountain sickness). But still with having spent a night at 5500m on Mera it wasn’t too bad. Unfortunately the altitude was still playing havoc with Tony and we made the safe call to bail before getting committed any higher on the pillar where altitude illness would have led to a serious situation.

Retracing our steps

Descending the big bay below the glacier, the fault line we'd followed through he rock wall isn't visible but starts just behind Tony's back and went diagonally up right to the glacier just visible

There are still lots of unknowns on this route, but it gave me a sneak preview and a few of the answers, but more importantly temptation and psyche to be back. And anyway the failures keep you on your toes make those successes all the more special.

The boys that help make it all possible

Many thanks to Mountain Equipment, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Tendon Ropes, Lorpen Socks, SIS and Adidas Eyewear for their continued support and our agent Loben Expeditions for another first class service. The expedition was funded with help from The BMC and the Alpine Club Climbing Fund.

Chang Himal Piolet d'Or slide show

I've being meaning to post this for a bit now and with a bit of time on my hands I've eventually got round to it.

Last year Nick and I were nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2010 for our first ascent of the north face of Chang Himal in Nepal. This is the film/slide show that the organisers put together for the event.




Looking semi hopeful for flying to Lukla tomorrow, now we just need a couple of weeks of weather like we had last year, fingers crossed!

The waiting game....

This afternoon we should have being wandering into the village of Tangnag, sitting under the south face of Kyashar, our base camp for the expedition. Instead we find ourselves wandering down to Himalayan Java for our ritual coffee session and brief escape from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, the constant beeping of car and bike horns, the sound track of the city, reminding us where we are.

The first attempt at flying to Lukla, only 75kg of excess, let the bartering commence!

Lukla, the small mountain airport we fly to for the start our trek, is quite literally perched on the side of a mountain, 40 minutes of beautiful Himalayan panorama ending with a very ‘exciting’ landing on the short runway with a 12% gradient. With no radar they need very good weather to operate and the heavy rain and snow over the last few days means only a small handful of flights have left. Leaving a massive backlog of trekkers and climbers at both ends, frustration showing on everyone’s face.

We’ve packed and un-packed all our kit three times now for different scenarios trying to beat the system and jump the queue. The only option other than flying is a 9 hour bus ride to Jiri, the start of all expeditions before the airport was built and then an eight day trek to Tangnag. We chose Kyashar because of its ease of access from Kathmandu, three days should have seen us at base camp, the long approach trek isn’t too appealing and already three days behind schedule we’d arrive at Tangnag nearly two weeks later than planned but with all flights fully booked for the week options were running out.

Last night over a beer with Loben (www.lobenexpeditions.com) we came up with a plan, a bit of a gamble but hopefully it pays off. This morning Phalden our ‘guide’ got the early bus to Jiri with most of our kit and will start the trek to Tangnag tomorrow. We’ve kept one bag with us, just about enough kit to try and acclimatize on Mera Peak. The idea being we can get a flight in the next couple of days which will be much easier with just the two of us and only one bag, grab a porter in Lukla and arrive in base camp quite a bit in front of Phalden and start acclimatizing. It’s never a good idea going separating from your bags but knowing Phalden he’ll look after them like his own and won’t let them out of his sight, they’re in safe hands!

Kathmandu

Landing in Kathmandu on Wednesday after a brief stop in Dakar things seemed to be going unusually smooth until after an hour staring at the baggage conveyor there was still no sign of our 4 bags and 90kg of kit. Leaving Tony at the airport for a nervous wait to see if our bags would turn up on the next flight from Dakar I headed straight to the Ministry of Tourism with our agent, Loben, to meet our Liaison Officer and get the permit for Kyashar.

Tony with our 90Kg of kit at Heathrow

Amazingly, thanks to Lobens efficiency I had the permit in my hand within 2 hours of landing in the country! Things got even better when we drove back to the airport to find Tony with all four of our bags and a big grin as his bottle of 15 year old Glenlivet had arrived intact inside his boots (I’m not too sure which he was more worried about, the climbing kit turning up or the whiskey bottle!).

Sorting the paper work for the permit at the Ministry

Weather permitting we fly to Lukla tomorrow (Saturday) morning then we’ve got a four day trek to our base camp at the village of Tangnag. Since landing we’ve spent a couple of days just chilling out, catching up with friends and last minute shopping in Kathmandu. Our flight back to the UK is booked for the 19th November so all being well we’ll be back in Kathmandu a couple of days before that...

Kyashar Expedition

Due to one reason and another a month ago I was pretty sure this years trip out to Nepal was going to have to be cancelled after a few months of its on, its off, its back on again, then it was off again. I was actually quite looking forward to a quick Autumn hit to the alps instead but after randomly bumping into a mate, the young and talented Tony Stone, down in North Wales, suddenly it was all happening again! We got the flights confirmed for the 12th October last week and with some extra support from the Alpine Club on top of the BMC grant we already had the psyche was back again.

Tony Stone (Moonflower Buttress, Alaska)

Kyashar stands proud at 6769m guarding over the village of Tangnag in the Hinku valley, Nepal and caught both Nick and my eye when we were in the area two years ago. First climbed back in 2003 via the West ridge and West face (probably our decent route IF we get up the thing) we hope to have an attempt on the 2000m+ South Pillar (centre of the face in the photo below) which a Czech team tried last year. Unfortunately they had to retreat at around half height but reported climbing up to WI6 and M7 to where they got, ummm...

The 2000+m face of Kyashar

Kyashar emerging from the morning clouds above the Hinku Valley

Many thanks for their support on this expedition to the BMC, The Alpine Club, Mountain Equipment, Scarpa, Black Diamond, Tendon Ropes, Lorpen Socks, Adidas Eyewear

Chang Himal North Face ED+ / M6

This time last year Nick and I returned to Kathmandu early and empty handed, literally, after having our base camp robbed and grand old sum of zero climbing. Things went a bit different this year, everything seemed to just work out, great weather, great mountain, brilliant base camp cook, no robbers and a summit.

North Face of Chang Himal, Central Spur, 1800m ED+ / M6 (Bullock & Houseman 29/10/09 - 02/11/09)

The awesome 1800m North face of Chang Himal (6802m) was quite daunting to wake up to each morning, looking directly across at it, 1km away over a jumbled glacier/moraine mess. Having filled our cook 'Buddy' with confidence after failing to reach the top of some nearby 6000m bumps and taking two attempts to get up the local trekking peak, 'route finding errors...', dawn on the 29th October saw us a good way up the lower part of the face and fighting off the initial signs of a bout of Gardia, perfect timing!

We spent 5 days on the face, covering well over 2000m of ground, the second been the slowest and crux with run out climbing up to Scottish 7/M6 on steep rotten ice/snow over loose rock. Gear and belays seemed to take an age to uncover, finding something if you were lucky. Any un-comfy second night on a 30cm snow ledge was eased slightly hoping the crux section was, hopefully, below us. After a few hours simu-climbing the third day ended with 3 pitches bringing us up into the steep Peruvian style snow flutings below the summit.

Andy starting out from the Bivi on Day 2. Photo: Nick Bullock

Waking, not sure if we'd climb ourselves into a dead end Nick peeked over into the next fluting returning with a grin, game on! Leaving all the gear at the bivi we managed to grovel up the final flutings to follow the east ridge for the last 100m to the summit.

Nick heading up the second and crux pitch on Day 2

Over a year of looking at photos, nearly two weeks staring, watching from base camp – will it? won’t it? To finally be sat, along with Nick, one leg either side of the knife edge summit, wow! I can’t begin to describe.

Down climbing back to the last bivi we spent another night there before abseiling the rest of the face in 14 hours and crashing out in a small cave at the base, bodies trashed but big smiles.

A massive thanks to everyone who supported this trip, Mountain Equipment, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Mammut, DMM, SIS (Sports in Science) and the Lyon Equipment Award for their continued help with gear and financial support from The BMC, MEF, Nick Estcourt Award, Mark Clifford Award, Shipton/Tilman Award. This trip couldn’t have happened without it, your support is much appreciated, thank you.

Summit joy! Photo - Nick Bullock