Psyched!! |
After six weeks away Nick Bullock and I are slowly
negotiating all the security, excess baggage and general airport hassle on our
way back home. Six weeks away for 84
hours of climbing, sometimes I wonder why at times! But this time there’s no question that those
84 hours climbing the Slovak Direct on the nearly 3000m South Face of Denali, 6194m, were the most committed, intense and memorable climbing I have ever done.
We didn't climb it in a single push or enchain it with another Alaskan grade 6 test piece like some of the previous ascents but for us the atmosphere of the face, the remoteness, the size and the four days of bad weather lead to the most committed and out there route either of us had ever done. Like all the previous ascensionist (ours was the 6th since the first in 1984) we had an amazing experience on the route which definitely didn't come easy and has left life long memories.
We left 14,000ft camp following the tracks of the two Toms
up to the West Rib cut off and joined them for the decent down the Wickwire
Ramp to the North East Fork and the start of the Cassin Ridge which the Tom’s
then went on to climb over the next two days.
The slopes to cross over the Cassin were looking horrible in the early
evening so we decided to bivi there and start early the next morning for the
final approach down the original start to the Cassin into the East Fork and the
base of the Slovak. Taking longer than
expected by the time we reached the East Fork and brewed up the sun had hit the
face and the lower part was transformed into a patch work of wet streaks of
melt water running everywhere so we spent the day dozing and waiting for the
cooler temperatures of the night.
Midnight came and Big Bertha (the massive serac that hangs
over part of the South Face) woke, exploding 1400m above us and had us
scurrying down the glacier. Next the
serac above the starting couloir stirs, not again… we watch a small bit of debris
come down and decide to get back in our bags for a couple of hours to let
things settle.
Eventually at 3am on the 24th we crossed the bergschrund
and quickly soloed up the approach couloir to a big long traverse out onto the
face proper. The first day went quickly
and after 9 hours of climbing up classic alpine ground and a few steep ice
pitches we set up the tent for a luxurious bivi in the bergschrund of a hanging
glacier.
Fourteen and a half hours later (the bivi was a bit too
comfy…) we left and started the meat of the route. From the top right of the hanging glacier ice
goulettes and mixed steps lead up a depression in the face to the base of a
clean completely vertical big wall, the situation and atmosphere of the face
totally out there. Breaking out right a
huge iced up corner stretches for 140m through some of the wildest ground
either of us had have ever climbed in the mountains, the commitment and size of
the face, the quality and steepness of the climbing all made for an awe
inspiring situation.
The weather hadn’t been too bad on the previous day, a
little bit of snow but nothing too worrying but throughout the morning it had
gradually deteriorated. My block
finished and Nick lead up the final pitch of the corner getting hammered by
spindrift being whipped up by strong winds above. Miraculously the sun came out for the crux
rock wall and a quick paper, rock, scissors decided who was going to have it, Nick
had a proper good effort at freeing it before lack of gear, pressure of time
and a distinct phobia of broken bones half way up a 3000m face forced him to
lower off, so close! Returning to Nicks
high point with a replenished rack from the lower section, I aided the last few
steep meters of climbing and up the final easier section (the way two of the
previous ascents had taken). A couple
more pitches and we ended up on the ice slopes with Big Bertha looming way out
to the right, hour seventeen on the go and back to strong winds and snow, we
simlu climbed up ice slopes and easy mixed ground for a few hundred meters to
the final technical pitch of the Slovak Direct.
This should have been a straight forward 70m pitch up a
beautiful ice runnel and a great way to finish off the climbing before joining
the Cassin. As it was I’ve never had to
dig as deep, well into hour twenty something and feeling the strain what would
normally take 15 min of enjoyable climbing lasted an hour and a half, most of
it spent trying to hold on in the constant spindrift pouring down, definitely
‘type 2’ fun!
The Slovak was over and 27 hours after leaving our last bivi
we’d joined the Cassin. Using the tent
as a bivi sack, too scared to try and put the poles in in the wind we dozed and
melted snow before continuing up the final 3500ft of Cassin Ridge aiming for
the summit that day.
Deep fresh snow slowed us even more than our tired bodies
and the ridge seemed to go on for ever.
At 18,500ft we were forced to put the tent up in winds too strong to
continue climbing in. Eventually sixteen
hours later the weather seemed to be clearing and we made a mad dash, well more
a very tired and slow trudge up the final 1800ft to the summit, being treated
to clear skies, sun and a summit to ourselves at 16.30 on the 27th.
The decent down the West Buttress went fine and we were
kindly taken in by a guided group at the 17,00ft camp for some food and drinks
before continuing down to 14,000ft camp later that evening. Six days out, four on the route and the most
fulfilling, committing and totally absorbing experience in the mountains I have
ever had.
The nearly 3000m South Face of Denali with the line of the Slovak Direct and our bivis marked |
Nick soloing
up the access couloir on the first day
|
Nick soloing
up the access couloir on the first day
|
Following
Nick on the first short pitch to get across some dry slabs (photo - Nick Bullock)
|
Approaching
the first steep ice pitch after a long traverse out right (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Nick on the
first steep pitch of the route, one of the crux pitches
|
Following the
first ice pitch (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Starting up a
beautiful ice runnel (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Easier ground
above the two ice pitches on day 1
|
A nice comfy
bivi under the bergschrund of the hanging glacier
|
Start of day
2 traversing across the hanging glacier
|
Soloing up
the ice gully to the start of the technical climbing on day 2 (photo – Nick
Bullock)
|
Nick heading
up into a sea of granite
|
One of the
many pitches of classic alpine ice goulettes (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Nicks first block
over and I start my first block of the day (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Heading up
towards the ice corner, this pitch lead to a short snow field below the huge
vertical wall, the ice corner visible above started from this and is around
140m long (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
The first
steep pitch of the corner (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Battling
through snow in the corner, I timed finishing my block perfectly with the start
of the spindrift ;-) (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Nick after
seconding the first pitch of the steep corner and getting acquainted with the
spindrift
|
Nick on the
classic steep ice pitch of the corner, with the big granite wall on his left
looking very Scottish!
|
A short snow
field lead up to the steep rock crux pitch with the line marked, the traverse
above is hidden from view (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Nick coming up to the rock crux pitch |
Nick giving
110% effort to try free the line we took
|
On the long
traverse pitch above the rock band (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Staring up the couloir that by passes the 3rd rock band of the Cassin |
Somewhere on the Cassin enjoying the deep snow |
After the
force sixteen hour bivi in the wind we got a break in the weather and made a
tired trudge under blue skies to the summit (photo – Nick Bullock)
|
Nick coming
up the top part of the Cassin
|
Looking
pretty tired on Kahiltna Horn just below the summit
|
Nick on the final
ridge from Kahiltna Horn to the summit
|
Descending
down the ‘autobahn’ to 17,000ft camp and then onto 14,000ft camp (photo – Nick
Bullock)
|
awesome work Andy - super inspiring and an amazing effort - scut
ReplyDeleteSooo-eee! Way to go fellas! Glad to see the photos- proud work!
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely stunning stuff, great to see.
ReplyDeleteCool, great set of photos. Inspiring.
ReplyDeleteSaw your film on YouTube. Very good, very professional piece. I felt like I was right there with you guys.
ReplyDeleteJust got to the video and looking up more. Amazing place, superb climbing and a great team!
ReplyDeleteNice post thank you Theresa
ReplyDelete